Out and about: The March Hare
Save this for your next trip to Guilford
Happy 2025!
I wish I could say this was my first meal out of the year, but alas, I grabbed a late dinner from Wagamama on January 2nd, after seeing Queer at the Barbican. On January 3rd though, my partner and I did a thing and started 2025 with a weekend getaway to a cabin in West Sussex, near the South Downs National Park.
We spent two days immersed in nature, lighting a cosy fire to warm up, braving a three-and-a-half-hour hike on a very cold day, and even using a compostable toilet (talk about rustic). While it wasn’t the most relaxing experience, I was reminded of how much I love hiking and how I wish I could make more time for it.
On the way back to London, we decided to stop for lunch in Guildford, a town neither of us had visited before but had heard was charming. A quick search for vegan-friendly options didn’t yield anything particularly exciting, but it was a Sunday, and a classic pub roast seemed like the perfect idea. One pub came up repeatedly in guides, The March Hare, and after a quick glance at their menu, revealing a couple of promising vegan options, we decided to give it a go.
Upon arrival (just a few minutes after the opening time) the place was already buzzing and despite pretty much every table having a reservation sign, we managed to snatch a seat. As far as ambience and decor go, think elevated English pub with a more sophisticated food menu and a wine list offering more than what you’d expect from your typical local.
I was really tempted by the herb gnocchi with truffled artichoke velouté, wild mushroom fricassée and artichoke crisps, but eventually I went for the artichoke and chestnut mushroom pithivier with braised baby onions and grilled leeks, served with red wine and port sauce. For those who don’t know (I certainly didn’t), a pithivier is a round, enclosed puff pastry pie named, according to Wikipedia, after the French town of Pithiviers, where the dish is thought to have originated. While it’s not wildly different from a traditional English pie, the presentation felt a touch more elegant, the braised baby onions and grilled leeks were a nice addition, and the red wine and port sauce had a depth and richness that surpassed any gravy I’ve ever had.
We ended the meal sharing the Bromley apple and blackberry crumble, which we ordered with vegan custard instead of the Normandy crème fraîche. When it comes to crumble, I firmly believe the fruit-to-crumble ratio to be deeply personal; some people prefer a heavier helping of fruit, while others, like me, lean toward more crumble than fruit. This particular crumble was definitely more fruit-heavy, which wasn’t quite to my taste. I also tend to prefer cold rather than warm custard. All in all, it wasn’t my ideal crumble experience, but a decent way to finish an otherwise satisfying meal.
Considering that the March Hare isn’t a vegan restaurant, I really can’t complain. Sure, it wasn’t the most groundbreaking culinary experience, and it would be nice to see more options on the menu, but the overall atmosphere made up for it, adding a touch of charm to our weekend getaway. Plus, in a smaller town like Guildford, it’s not always a given that you’ll find a satisfying vegan meal. If I were to go back for whatever reason and they still had it on the menu, I’d definitely try the herb gnocchi with truffled artichoke velouté.